Kira Morris – Resource Travel http://travel.resourcemagonline.com Resource Travel brings you the world's most beautiful and inspiring photos, videos and stories. Wed, 31 Aug 2016 17:38:47 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.2 A Tribute to Discomfort: The Work of National Geographic Photographer Cory Richards http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/03/a-tribute-to-discomfort-the-work-of-national-geographic-photographer-cory-richards/13166/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/03/a-tribute-to-discomfort-the-work-of-national-geographic-photographer-cory-richards/13166/#comments Fri, 24 Mar 2017 18:34:40 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=13166 It’s sometimes easy to forget, lazing in the comforts of home or coffee shop, that the remote edges of this planet remain hostile and dangerous. Parts of this earth just…

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It’s sometimes easy to forget, lazing in the comforts of home or coffee shop, that the remote edges of this planet remain hostile and dangerous. Parts of this earth just aren’t made for humans or, at least, not all of them.

The stories of explorers of centuries past—think about early Everest climbers and Antarctic trekkers—are reminders that there are a few of us, very few of us, who will brave any condition, who will venture past any line, out of the safe space, right into the danger zone, and stage a battle of wills between the human spirit and the humans-dare-not-tread spaces.



Enter Cory Richards. Cory belongs to that crowd of explorers who, through sheer will alone, find themselves facing down the terrible and frightening forces of natural destruction. His photography, of course, needs no real recommendation from me, or from you, or from anyone. Skill speaks for itself. But what sets him apart is the impression one gets from this video that even if Cory were born in centuries past, before the age of cameras, he would be there anyway. He’d be in the middle of the battle, face toward the wind, daring life to send him more. An explorer first, it feels at times like he’s not venturing for the camera. The camera just came along for the journey and, through it, so can we.

To see more on Cory Richards, follow him on instagramfacebook, or his website


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Watch the Centuries Old Tradition of Buffalo Racing in Thailand http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/02/watch-the-centuries-old-tradition-of-buffalo-racing-in-thailand/13170/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/02/watch-the-centuries-old-tradition-of-buffalo-racing-in-thailand/13170/#comments Mon, 13 Feb 2017 17:55:47 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=13170 The Chanburi Buffalo Races in Thailand is an annual event that dates back at least a century. The dangerous races are entertaining to spectators while having high stakes for the riders.…

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The Chanburi Buffalo Races in Thailand is an annual event that dates back at least a century. The dangerous races are entertaining to spectators while having high stakes for the riders. Valuable prizes and prestige are awarded to top jockeys who devote a considerable amount of training and time in preparation. Filmmaker Roberto Serrini described the event as,    “A crazy sight; exciting, frightening, fast, furious, dangerous, and beautiful.” Captured in a unique fashion, Roberto employed drone footage combined with selective desaturation to put a modern artistic spin on the traditional festival.

To see more from Roberto Serrini check out his website or follow him on Vimeo.

Check out some of our favorite shots from the film below.

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Inspired by an Illustration, Filmmaker Shares a Unique View of his Iceland Road Trip http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/02/inspired-by-an-illustration-filmmaker-shares-a-unique-view-of-his-iceland-road-trip/13168/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/02/inspired-by-an-illustration-filmmaker-shares-a-unique-view-of-his-iceland-road-trip/13168/#comments Fri, 03 Feb 2017 22:41:49 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=13168 There’s no shortage of photographers and filmmakers who want to capture the unique beauty of Iceland. (I’m even reminded of a recent credit card commercial.) The challenge is not finding…

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There’s no shortage of photographers and filmmakers who want to capture the unique beauty of Iceland. (I’m even reminded of a recent credit card commercial.) The challenge is not finding what to capture so much as how to capture it. Is it possible to have a unique take on such a well-documented subject?

JP Lewis, filmmaker and traveler, found his own approach to capturing Iceland, while also raising some age-old questions about film versus still photography. He and his girlfriend spent six days touring the island with a cheap, blank picture frame.

Using this instrument alone, we slide seamlessly between shots that alternately moving into and out of the camera’s frame and the picture frame itself. Lewis plays here with the idea of boundary. When watching video, as opposed to a still photograph, a viewer sometimes gets the sense of moving through a limitless space. But juxtaposed with the stills in the picture frame itself, one is reminded that there are always boundaries, whether in time (stills) or in space (perspective), and that boundaries are necessary if one is to capture a subject at all.

It’s possible to watch the video and see Lewis’s idea as little more than a trick. And, of course, one might be forgiven this shallower interpretation because the beauty Lewis captures, coupled with some nice music for a couple minutes, makes for pleasant viewing experience that one can simply sit back and enjoy.

To see more from JP Lewis check him out on Vimeo or at his website.

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My Experience Climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro as an Avid Hiker http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/01/my-experience-climbing-mt-kilimanjaro-as-an-avid-hiker/12457/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/01/my-experience-climbing-mt-kilimanjaro-as-an-avid-hiker/12457/#comments Tue, 31 Jan 2017 20:12:51 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=12457 A few years ago, photographer and avid hiker Brad Wolfe set out on what would be one of his most cherished journeys in his life. He boarded the long flight…

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A few years ago, photographer and avid hiker Brad Wolfe set out on what would be one of his most cherished journeys in his life. He boarded the long flight to Tanzania with one goal in mind: to conquer Mount Kilimanjaro, the tallest peak in Africa. Being an experienced hiker, he was ready for the challenge and with help from his local guides and porters he managed a safe and successful summit.

Brad took a moment to share some photos and memories from his once-in-a-lifetime experience. Check out the adventure in his words below.

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A magical looking view with the peak in the distance.

I climbed Mount Kilimanjaro during the first week of 2015 with an organized tour group called G Adventures. Our group consisted of three paying customers, (myself and two Australians)  two guides and eleven porters.
The porters did most of the work. They carried bags, cooked hot meals, and were in charge of pitching tents and breaking down campsites. It might seem a little excessive to have had so much help, but these men depended on guided trips like ours for income and were much better acclimated to the climate and altitude than foreigners. It was a nice arrangement because it gave me the ability to carry a camera with some heavier lenses and freed up time to take more pictures.

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Our hiking group

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Basic tents were our only shelters at base camp

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A porter skillfully balances a load on his head in addition to the one on his back.

 

We were on a route called Lomosho, which is scheduled to take 8 days. On day one, we stopped after only three hours of hiking which prompted me to ask how long we would hike per day. Our lead guide responded that it would only be two to four hours. So I convinced the group to skip a couple of camps that were close together, cutting the total days from eight to six.  Everyone was happy to do it and I am glad we did because it worked out nicely. Not too much hiking in one day, but not too short either. Since we were all relatively good hikers, it made for a much better pace. Altitude sickness is common, and luckily I didn’t have any issues acclimatizing but many people suffered from headaches, nausea, sleepless nights, and other issues. I like to hike fast and was glad that the head guide, Cha Cha, let me split off with the other guide so I could hike at my desired pace. Most days were easy for me and I usually arrived at the next campsite first. By first I mean before any porters, tourists, etc.

 

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Along with the amazing scenery, I enjoyed shooting some portraits while on the mountain.

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With around 200 people attempting to summit each day, the base camps can become crowded places.

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The weather was relatively nice in the mornings but it could turn quickly and usually rained every day. The temperature change could be drastic, when it was sunny it was very hot and in the rain it ended up getting quite cold.
The camp sites were crowded with many people from all around the world (and of course hundreds of porters). The “toilets” were just a small hole in the floor and your best bet to find one clean enough to be usable was to go to a shack with a missing door or one that was leaning over.

 

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Weather changes were common and cold could hit at any time.

 

Our highest camp was at 15,000 feet in elevation and the summit peaked at 19,300, so on summit day most groups leave at midnight. Because I walk fast, my guide suggested we start at 2:00 AM with his projection being that we would reach the top around 6:30 for the sunrise. When I started, I could already see headlamps half way up the mountain. About 45 minutes in I had already caught up to one of the 40 some groups attempting to summit. Since the idea is to walk at a steady, slow pace (to reduce suffering from altitude problems), passing the groups was not as easy as it should have been. Most people refused to step aside when we wanted to get by, so we would have to cut the trail to scurry in front. This meant I would start breathing heavier, and at 17,000+ feet it is a challenge to return to a normal breathing pattern.

 

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A view down the well trodden trail

 

My guide and I had caught and passed all the groups except for 2 when his competitive nature kicked in he started to repeatedly say “We need to be first to the summit”. I kept replying that it didn’t matter, as long as we made it but he didn’t like that response. At one point, he said, “You are the best hiker on the mountain, you should finish first”. And with that, our “race” began; however, it was like watching two snails race.  Still walking very slowly to avoid altitude issues, we ended up successful and managed to catch the remaining groups about 20 minutes shy of the summit.

 

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At the summit, the first time around.

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Having some fun on summit day

 

It had snowed about two feet the night before our summit attempt and according to our guides, it hadn’t snowed there in about four years. This caught a lot of people off guard and at least ten porters were suffering from snow blindness because they didn’t have proper sunglasses. I lent my sunglasses to a porter until I could safely pass him off to some people sent up in search for missing porters.

Despite these challenges, I arrived at the summit by 5:25, about an hour before sunrise. Our 3 hour and 25-minute summit climb was the second fastest my guide had ever done in his 200+ attempts.
We celebrated with some pictures and greeted the next two groups, which arrived about 20 minutes later. I stayed up there for 30 minutes or so, but it was too cold to wait for sunrise so we began to head down.

 

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The star gazing was incredible on clear nights.

 

20 minutes into our descent we ran into the two Australians and they requested I go back up with them. Having plenty of time to spare, I went and celebrated the summit again, this time together as a group. It was well worth it because by then the sun had risen and it was beautiful. I was able to take more photos and the rare snow made for some amazing images.

 

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At the summit the second time around with the other hikers.

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The rare snowfall made for a majestic scene

 

About 150 of the 200+ climbers reached the summit that day but some of them took 12+ hours and suffered some major altitude problems. Altitude sickness is unpredictable, so I feel very fortunate that I didn’t have any issues. Both of the Australians suffered from some minor altitude problems (mostly headaches and nausea) but they powered through and did an amazing job considering this was their first summit of a peak above 9,000 ft.

 

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Sunrise on the mountain.

 

Unfortunately, after summiting we had to return to the bottom in the same day. This made for an extremely difficult day. After the 2 a.m. and the summit, we returned from 19,000 feet back to our campsite, ate breakfast, then hiked down to 6000 ft. It took me a little over an hour to descend from the peak to base camp (15,000 ft) and then we left base camp again around 10:30, making it down to the bottom by 3:15. The Australians arrived at 6. My knees and feet were aching in pain for at least 3 hours too long and I can honestly say that hiking down 13,000 ft is more difficult than hiking up. That was a long and difficult downhill.

Overall my experience on the mountain was amazing and offered some stunning. Kilimanjaro was beautiful, especially with snowfall and I felt very fortunate to have an accommodating guide, great new Australian friends, and amazing porters.

 

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We ran into a beautiful waterfall while hiking.

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Forget The Guidebooks, Travel How You Want http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/01/forget-the-guidebooks-travel-how-you-want/13191/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2017/01/forget-the-guidebooks-travel-how-you-want/13191/#comments Wed, 04 Jan 2017 18:03:21 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=13191 Southeast Asia is a sightseer’s daydream. It’s home to beautiful and ancient monasteries, incredible museums, and impressive statues of the Buddha. For the industrious traveler equipped with the TripAdvisor app…

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Southeast Asia is a sightseer’s daydream. It’s home to beautiful and ancient monasteries, incredible museums, and impressive statues of the Buddha. For the industrious traveler equipped with the TripAdvisor app or a Lonely Planet guide, one can find activities and tours to fill every moment of every journey and still miss “must-see” attractions. The traveler’s dilemma (a great dilemma to have) is that every city in every country has something worth seeing.

The temples of Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Listed in every guide book as an absolute must-see when traveling to Siem Reap

Kira lived and worked in Germany for a year, and spent every weekend going town- and country-hopping across Europe. She’d make exhaustive lists of attractions and from the early hours of Saturday until the late ones on Sunday, she’d take in as much as possible, trying not to miss anything a place had to offer. But one doesn’t have to travel far for this dilemma to set it: in my home state of Kansas, for example, one finds both the longest grain elevator and the largest ball of twine. (Roadtrippers be advised.) There is always, simply, too much to see.

The problem with Kira’s approach, she reflects, is that while she saw a lot, she simply didn’t enjoy the traveling enough. It was exhausting. The sights became easy to forget, the days and towns ran together. Where was the vacation, the relaxation? Does the leisure really come at the end, when you finally sit down to comb through the thousands of images?

A spontaneous boat ride in Hoi An, Vietnam led to this relaxing encounter. We missed a few other tourist attractions to make time for this experience but were happy with our choice.

So we learned while traveling together on an extended trip in Southeast Asia that we needed to decide, not between which things we should see, but on the kind of traveling we wanted to do. We decided that our travel was as much for rejuvenation as sight-seeing. So we chose, daily, between leisure and adventure, between the must-see and the must-sleep. We taught ourselves to forget about what we should do and simply worried about what would make us happier in each moment.

Instead of visiting the famed Marina Bay Sands while in Singapore, we sipped cocktails across the bay and enjoyed it from afar.

So what did we miss this way? We’re not entirely sure. Sunrise at Angkor Wat might have been beautiful. We don’t know. We slept in a bit and hit the place by 9. They offer a three-day pass. Great. We opted for the one-day and spent the other two in Siem Reap lounging poolside at the top of our hotel, eating local dishes and drinking local beer. By all means, visit Angkor Wat. But don’t feel obligated to buy the three-day pass because UNESCO declared this one of the most important sites in the world; unless you want to. We saw a circus that was highly rated on TripAdvisor, and it was incredible, a highlight of our time in Cambodia. You should go there. Or not, because the mid-day drinks we had while chatting up our waiter ranked up there, too.

One of my all-time favorite photographs from Angkor Wat was taken during a photographer’s most dreaded hour, noon. While I opted out of trying to get a sunrise shot, I still walked away with images that I loved.

In the historic Hoi An, Vietnam, Kira woke at 5:30am and took a sunrise photography tour. Some of her best photos were captured on that journey and she considers it a highlight. I used that time to sleep until I thought I might get interrupted by housekeeping and subsequently spent the morning on a lounge chair writing a mediocre short story.

Some of my most memorable moments while traveling happen far outside the confines of travel guide recommendations. Enjoying a chat with locals is far more important to me than checking off a list of must-dos

By the end of our two-month trip, we regularly lazed in our hotel room sometimes until 10, sometimes until noon. Others might find this lack of travelers’ ambition frustrating, a waste of time and money. And if they do, then they should. (That’s one reason I prefer not to travel with a large group.)

We slept more. We lounged around more. We watched local TV. But we don’t have regrets because we saw what we wanted to see and didn’t worry about what the internet thought we couldn’t miss.

We didn’t make it to Borobudur while in Yogyakarta, Indonesia, and looking back, I think perhaps we should have. So I’m not advocating skipping any attraction you want to see. I’m strongly advocating skipping any attraction you don’t want to see. It’s too easy to get caught up in the idea that because you may only come here once, your vacation needs to be an endless, exhausting slog from one destination to the next, taking selfies in front of everything from sunup until you can’t stand anymore.

While on an early morning photography tour in Hoi An, we were invited into a local boat yard to capture images of workers going about their day. This was one time I was glad to follow the TripAdvisor recommendation and join the tour.

Another monastery? Should you skip it? Yes. Or not. It’s your vacation, your money. Let your friends go by themselves. Walk to a local restaurant, order something you’ve never heard of, and then browse Facebook on the free wifi. Or don’t. Either way, allow yourself some time to enjoy the journey your own way and ignore the myriad lists and guides that want to sell you on every last attraction. Or, you know, don’t.

Words by Bradley Geer, Photos by Kira Morris.

See more photos from Kira Morris on her website, Facebook, and Instagram

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Fight Nights and Barefoot Cooking: An Adventure in Chiang Mai http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/fight-nights-and-barefoot-cooking-an-adventure-in-chiang-mai/8601/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/fight-nights-and-barefoot-cooking-an-adventure-in-chiang-mai/8601/#comments Mon, 05 Dec 2016 15:07:14 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=8601 Chiang Mai, in Northern Thailand, is a kind of second city (after Bangkok, of course), a cultural hub, tourist destination, and the unofficial capital of the north. Like so many…

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Chiang Mai, in Northern Thailand, is a kind of second city (after Bangkok, of course), a cultural hub, tourist destination, and the unofficial capital of the north. Like so many places, Chiang Mai is a town better described in photos than in words. But I’ll try to bridge the difference, and both show and tell you about our experience in this 700-year-old historic city. What you’ll see below is a photo story that shows the beauty of the city.

Before we look at the photos, I have to preface everything with a story. We often extensively research the places we visit beforehand, but with Chiang Mai, we accepted the recommendations of trusted friends and arrived more or less unprepared beyond the directions to the place we were staying. These directions, it turned out, weren’t sufficient for our tuktuk driver to get us any closer than the street itself. We stepped out of the small vehicle and were stranded in a downpour. Inches of water flooded the streets and we were stuck with our bags and no idea where to go. It was a low moment in our travels in terms of both our preparation, and our faith, as so many travelers have, that things often just work out. We must have looked as we felt, lost and forlorn. A local, kind man, stepped out of his home into the rain to help two stranded travelers find their hotel. I mention this exchange because it is characteristic of the hospitality we found in the city, and was the first of many amazing exchanges we had with other tourists and local residents. So when you view the photos below, place them in the context of a city that’s filled with wonderfully helpful and kind people, and you’ll begin to understand why Chiang Mai is among the top cities I recommend you visit.

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Muay Thai Fight Night.

Brad heard about these fight nights at a local gym where he’d taken Muay Thai classes (another recommended activity for those not afraid of bruises and sore muscles). There were a few popular spots to watch the sport, but this one was close to the central area of town, surrounded by restaurants and shops that catered far more to the tourist population than the locals. The venue was something from a gritty movie, but had a wait staff that delivered drinks to our seats and spoke English. The fighters were mostly young, newer to the sport, and earning their way to landing fights at the more “local” and respected arenas. As a result, these bouts were reportedly less violent and bloody than matches between older, more experienced fighters in other venues. Despite that, the brutishness of the sport was still on full display. One young girl, maybe 15 years old, took a barrage of blows from a far taller and more aggressive opponent. Intimidated and dispirited, she couldn’t bring herself to fight in the second round. The referee stopped the match and the girl left the ring crying. Another fight between even younger boys resulted in one of them being knocked out cold for a short time. After regaining consciousness, the boy tried to continue but his coaches ultimately stopped the fight. While we found ourselves concerned for the kids’ welfare, it was good to see that the coaches and referees did stop the fights as soon as someone was injured. We had to remind ourselves that the difference is cultural, and that the resulting trauma to the head or body can be found in all sports, from football to sports where concussions don’t get much attention. In all, and despite our concerns, it was a fun and exciting evening filled with music, some dancing, drinks, and, yes, the occasional roundhouse kick to the head.
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Temples.

Another aspect of Chiang Mai that was especially appealing to me as a photographer were the intricate and amazing temples dotting the landscape. The city boasts over 300 Buddhist temples. Each one is so ornate with such specific attention to detail that you could easily photograph the same small interior a thousand different ways. The exoticness wears off quickly and it is possible simply to stand there and really appreciate the craftsmanship for what it is. One of the most notable in the city was a temple made entirely of silver, Wat Sri Suphan. It was very much off the beaten path and we heard about it from a fellow traveler who had been taken there by a local. Even with clear directions, it was difficult to find and we had to veer off a main street on what appeared to be a wrong road. Most temples contain the iconic and beautiful contrasting reds and yellows that are common in this tradition. But this temple’s entire structure glistened with monochromatic silver. There was not a drop of color to be seen on the exterior of the building and because of this it boasted a visual impact unlike any other place of worship I have visited. Unfortunately, women are not allowed to enter the temple (a lack of signage and English speaking locals meant I would never fully know the reasoning for this) but luckily I didn’t need to enter to be glad we took the long walk to visit. untitled-18-14

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Gastronomy!

It was the first city of our trip where we had sufficient time to seek out delectable restaurants based solely on reputation. While we had many great meals across the city, one place stood out in particular. We decided to visit a place called Huen Phen  after hearing high praise. It took some work to find the establishment, and was a long walk from the cluster of tourist-catering businesses. When we arrived, the place was packed wall to wall, but it was well worth the wait. If you find yourself in Chiang Mai, Brad recommends the Kao-Soy, a signature dish of northern Thai cuisine. We also ordered the Tom Yum soup, but it was served with a spiciness level that the Thai are famous for. It was so hot that it burned when you smelled it. Brad managed a single spoonful before agony set in!

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The Bahn Thai cooking school.

More a residence-turned-business than a school, Bahn Thai relied on well-worn cooking utensils, an enthusiastic staff, and a beautiful location to draw its customers. (It also had a requirement that no shoes were to be worn. Nothing screams ‘sanitary’ like 20 barefoot strangers in a kitchen!) While there are many cooking schools to choose from in the city, this one had some extra features, including a trip to buy the ingredients at the local market. So after a mid-morning pickup from our hostel, we were greeted by the staff and escorted as a conspicuous group of foreigners to a local market. A magical and overwhelming place, the market was a bustling nest of activities, with vibrant colors and unfamiliar scents. Our guide brought us to different vendors’ stalls to select the ingredients we would be using to cook our lunches. He diligently explained what each item was, from the exotic to the ubiquitous. Everything was fresh and of the “whole” food varietal, which appealed greatly to me. Our ingredients in hand, we returned to the school to begin cooking, a process that even included a step-by-step walkthrough of how to make coconut milk (surprisingly less complicated than I expected). We spent the morning preparing several different dishes for lunch (one chose from a set menu based on preference) and then enjoyed a perfectly timed break between lunch entrees and a dessert just long enough for a cat nap on the same pillows that served as our dining seats. Even for those not especially interested in cooking (like Brad), the jovial staff made for a fun day and the opportunity to meet other travelers was priceless. We both consider this one of the best day-long activities we chose to do in all our travels.

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Tigers!

There are plenty of activities to keep you busy in the town, but there are also plenty of day trips from the city, some with questionable levels of socially responsible tourism. Elephant experiences, photo opportunities with tigers and visits to the Karen Long Neck village are all advertised on glossy pamphlets in hotel lobbies. I encourage those who consider these activities to do some research and decide if their tourism dollars will end up improving the lives of these people and animals or if they are perpetuating an already serious problem. In our experience, there were varying levels of responsibility.

In all, one can jam-pack a week full of activities in Chiang Mai, or one could simply sit at the many restaurants, cafes, and bars and simply enjoy the atmosphere of the historic city. Whatever you choose to do in Chiang Mai, you won’t be disappointed.

Photography by Kira Morris

Bradley Geer contributed to this article

 

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Unplug and Return to Nature at the Rivercane Rendezvous http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/rivercane-rendezvous/11757/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/rivercane-rendezvous/11757/#comments Fri, 02 Dec 2016 15:00:22 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=11757 Outdoor enthusiasts and all around adventurers Tom Pence and Mandy Daumiller were looking to fill some time off between overseas contracts (they spend their summers working in Antarctica). They had…

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Outdoor enthusiasts and all around adventurers Tom Pence and Mandy Daumiller were looking to fill some time off between overseas contracts (they spend their summers working in Antarctica). They had already made the rounds visiting various friends around the country when they decided to embark on one last road trip. This time, they were headed south to Georgia. Their destination? Rivercane Rendezvous. A 7-day immersive earth-skills camp centered around fostering community and teaching basic primal survival skills that have all but disappeared in our modern world of iPhones and Netflix.

Tom and Mandy were kind enough to tell us about their experience and convince us that a self-induced technology ban in the wild could do us all a bit of good.

We heard about Rivercane Rendezvous from Mandy’s friend Sandy who has been fully submerged in holistic farming for a few years. Sandy attended in 2015 and was still living in the afterglow of the event.  She convinced us to make the trek to Georgia by telling us we would return stronger, wiser, and sore from laughing and it she was right.

The rendezvous is held just outside the city limits of Lafayette, Georgia in a forest populated with ash and birch trees, a lake, poison ivy, and a few ticks. Once we arrived we were given a rudimentary map that outlined a basic layout to the grounds but left a lot the imagination. Camping was separated into a quiet area for families and light sleepers, and a louder site for those who don’t mind going to bed to the sounds of late night storytelling and campfire sing-alongs.

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After a couple of days, we decided to take a break from pottery and weapon making to learn an old style of making moccasins. The course was 4 hours and taught us that we don’t need a measuring tape and pencil to make footwear.

We camped next to firefly-filled woods for the week long event and were fed a daily wholesome breakfast and dinner. Each morning we woke to the serenades of other attendees who wandered the grounds with homemade flutes. A bell served as our clock, ringing throughout the day to announce meals, breaks and the conclusion of classes in the evening.  Without having to rely on phones to keep time, we were able to almost completely disconnect from electronics for the week (which was recommended by organizers for the “full experience”).

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Being that electronics were discouraged, we found rudimentary ways to have fun such as interviews filmed by a round of firewood with a maple leaf boom.

The class schedule was posted nightly around dinner time so we could plan for the classes we wanted to take the next day. Some classes lasted all week and others were as short as an hour. The selection of skills being taught was so broad that it was impossible to do everything we wanted, especially since we had both committed to week long projects –building a bow and an atlatl (a type of spear thrower).  It was recommended that first-year attendees should begin with the basic courses like cord making and fire starting, but the idea of crafting weapons and pottery lured us away to the more glamorous projects.

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After an afternoon of identifying, harvesting, and processing clay from a nearby stream we were able to really get muddy and start our projects. We crouched and kneeled on a tarp in bare feet and hammered out clay pots for a few hours each day.

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Mandy learned the art of fletching arrows, or in this case, darts for her atlatl. The process involves making pitch with sap and fire and wrapping feathers that were split down the middle with sinew (animal ligament).

With Sandy’s help, a few friendly emails to the coordinators, and a paid commitment deposit, we were able to do a partial work trade to defray some of the cost. Worktrading gave us the roles of a morning dish washer and a trash handler (a coveted job because it involved driving a golf cart through the grounds). This work paid for half of our admission fees, but only took a couple of hours a day, leaving us with ample time to attend classes. The behind-the-scenes experience of work trade was appealing and there was an added bonus of camaraderie with other volunteers. Coordinators and attendees were all tremendously gracious while we were working, and when we return to the Earthskills scene in the future we definitely plan on applying for work trade positions again.

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The instructor who organized the pottery class had a “come as you please” attitude and only wanted to facilitate people playing in the mud. Those who were more invested were bestowed with his wisdom on how best to control clay. His weapons of choice were smooth rocks and wooden paddles to even the sides.

An opening ceremony was held after breakfast on the first day and was teeming with excitement for the week to come. An elder named Snow Bear (a.k.a. Stephen Taylor, one of the event’s founders) started the ceremony by emphasizing the need to understand  our past and appreciate the collective history of humanity. He followed up on the importance of elders in a community. They are the people who carry knowledge from one generation to the next, who give unbiased council, and who become the storytellers that engage all ages in society.

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A tradition at the rendezvous is the “Walk-a-thon” where people of all ages show the crowd that there are many different ways to traverse, such as a giant princess followed by her favorite sprite.

On our first day of classes, our initial task was to harvest clay from the ground so we could clean and prepare it for pottery projects. Instead of a structured class, the pottery instructor offered his space, tools, and knowledge in a come-as-you-please workspace, nestled down by a trickling creek. When we had spare time throughout the week we would wander over and work on ceramics.  After our work duties were done, we split the rest of the day up by devoting a few hours to making our respective weapons and then squeezed in a few other courses: lymphatic bodywork, bow-drill fire starting, plant identification, and moccasin making. There was enough space that each class had it’s own private area, all with stunning views of the surrounding environment.

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After putting in 6 days of work we were finally ready to put string on our bows. This father was feeling very uncertain about putting tension on his beloved bow but in the end the bow held true.

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Using our feet, fingers, and pieces of coal fresh from the fire we learned to accurately measure, mark, and construct our moccasins from brain-tanned leather.

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The rendezvous taught us to maximize all of the resources we have and it resulted in us making two pairs of moccasins from one hide. We used different sides to give a little originality to our sister-slippers.

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This rendezvous was our first trip to the south and we were impressed by the landscape and scenery. We learned about new plants and bugs from the local folks who attended the event. There was an astounding amount of information flowing around camp.

The environment was a major contributor in the fun to be had at Rivercane. It was our first time to Georgia and we fell in love with the wild hills and explorable ash forest. The night was as exciting as the days, with hordes of fireflies, bioluminescent mushrooms, friendly campfire gatherings, and an epically starry sky to illuminate our campsite. The one thing we could have done without though,  were the ticks. We had been camping for a good portion of the year, but having to burn a tick off Tom’s armpit was a first for us both.

 

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The welcoming ceremony began with a few speeches and the lighting of the ancestor fire where they added ash from the previous year’s fire and shared their hopes for rendezvous. The fire did not go out for all 7 days and was our central point for everything; we met here every morning and evening, played music at night, and told stories at all hours of the day.

At maximum, there were around 300 people on site for the rendezvous. With an abundance of different age groups ranging from 4 to 80 years old, the classes were split so the smallest kids and younger teenagers had their own groups. The youngest were mostly read to and enjoyed a lot of swimming and games. They joined in on the primal living instruction by finding specific types of flexibles woods for hat making, foraging for edible plants, and learning how to make and play flutes from native rivercane. The teenagers took to the construction of a secret pirate fort and other teen-focused projects. Adult classes were filled with an assortment of ages and skill levels, with plenty of noobs like us being guided by elders and returnees.

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Our younger generations were looked over by a couple of volunteers who were identified by their amazing headwear made alongside children.

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I (Tom) spent most afternoons making a bow from a stave of hickory. This process involved a lot of marking, shaving, and bringing it to the instructor for more instructions. This gentleman is still at the stage where he needs to shave off a lot of wood before getting a string on it.

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There were a number of afternoon classes on offer, one of which was 40 Minute Forks. The instructor showed everyone that you can use anything around you for everyday purposes, such as eating.

Community ties created a warm family atmosphere that we were instantly welcomed into. Constant interaction with such an array of interesting and skilled people served as solid inspiration to learn as much as possible. The crowd was refreshingly laid back. On a social level, it was similar to a music festival, but instead of partying, the goal was to learn and share primitive skills. The excitement and friendliness of a festival scene was palpable and everyone was eager to have fun with plenty of live music and dancing. Walking to camp, I was struck by how similarly sweet the campground is to a music festival, except that people are sitting around the fire whittling spoons or making arrowheads.  Mandy’s favorite part of the week by far was sitting around the main campfire each night, listening to stories and sharing songs with the wise and whimsical community.

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Throughout the rendezvous people brought forth their talents and played music between and after classes. Everyone was welcome to pick up a bongo and join in, no one was exempt from live music.

It seemed that everyone at the rendezvous turned out to be a master of something, and plenty of artists brought wares to share. We were surprised (and stoked) by how much group singing and storytelling transpired. Many attendees showed up with their own (often homemade) instruments, hoping for a chance to jam together. People would spontaneously start to sing and everyone around would quickly join in.  One night, there was a potluck held, and everyone was invited to share food. We sampled all kinds of awesome homegrown delicacies and had a chance to feature our own homecrafted cheese. Being new to the cheese making world, it was nice to have the opportunity to share this goat cheese called cabecou that we had made with friends prior to the rendezvous. Another aspect of the community dynamic that impressed us was the group’s ability to keep conversations meaningful and civil when there were so many differing lifestyles represented, from the crustiest hippie to the staunchest survivalist.  We never heard even the slightest hint of  fighting about politics and rarely heard someone getting too outlandish with their explanation of a conspiracy theory.

To learn more about the Earthskills Rivercane Rendezvous check out their website and facebook.

Photographs by Tom Pence.

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On one of our final days we took our pots over to the ancestor fire to fire our pots and show everyone our hard work.

 

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Some attendees were experienced in certain forms of primitive living and crafting. We met this gentleman who seemed to know a bit about everything but even he still attended classes and sought help with projects such as atlatl-making.

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Travel Feels: Norway http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/travel-feels-norway/12535/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/12/travel-feels-norway/12535/#comments Thu, 01 Dec 2016 19:00:28 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=12535 Travel Feels: Norway is just one short film in a series created by filmmaker Matti Haapoja. This particular video features vignettes of an adorable couple on a picture-perfect vacation dotted…

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Travel Feels: Norway is just one short film in a series created by filmmaker Matti Haapoja. This particular video features vignettes of an adorable couple on a picture-perfect vacation dotted between incredible aerial footage of the vast and dramatic Norwegian landscape. Produced in conjunction with Visit Norway, this film showcases the adventure possibilities of a Scandinavian trip and accomplishes exactly what it set out to do: demonstrate why Norway should be your next destination.

To learn more about traveling to Norway, check out Visit Norway’s website or Facebook.

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Film Encourages Travelers to Not Forget Our Desire to Learn http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/11/film-encourages-travelers-to-not-forget-our-desire-to-learn/8636/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/11/film-encourages-travelers-to-not-forget-our-desire-to-learn/8636/#comments Wed, 16 Nov 2016 21:47:58 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=8636 Many, if not most, people say, “I want to travel.” While these sentiments are often sincere, for those who actually leave home, for those who finally pack bags, buy tickets,…

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Many, if not most, people say, “I want to travel.” While these sentiments are often sincere, for those who actually leave home, for those who finally pack bags, buy tickets, leave jobs and homes, and set out on that first important journey, it is often true that the sources of that desire to travel are more narrowly defined.

Travel itself is not often what inspires us. Travel is what we do after we become inspired. Inspired to take photos, inspired to listen to the music of other peoples in distant lands, inspired to taste exotic foods, inspired to meet new people, inspired to go on dates with limited common language, inspired perhaps then to learn that language, or maybe just inspired to make our Facebook pages more interesting for our relatives.

These observations about travel are why I like this short video by Rick Mereki. At first glance, it seems like little more than a series of images of his own experience trying to learn new things. And for some, seeing the sheer volume of activities he engages in might seem overwhelming, or unrealistic. It’s true that most of us will not get to do everything he does. But for me, this video served as a reminder that, rather than simply thinking about travel in broad terms, it’s important also to pinpoint those smaller, narrow motivational factors, and pursue them. In this video, a desire to learn. For me, a desire to shoot photographs, or see penguins, or share a drink with a stranger. And others find their own sources or combination of sources. So whether you learn to mountain climb or flamenco dance isn’t important. You may never do either. The takeaway is to remember why you travel, pinpoint those factors, and follow their lead. Maybe they’ll take you to the top of Everest, or to teach English overseas. Or maybe they’ll lead you, like they did Mereki, to try to learn about the world broadly and capture some of those beautiful moments on film.

To see more from Rick Mereki, follow him on FacebookTwitterTumblrVimeoInstagram and his Website

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Live the Experience of Photographing a Polar Expedition http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/live-the-experience-of-photographing-a-polar-expedition/10069/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/live-the-experience-of-photographing-a-polar-expedition/10069/#respond Tue, 27 Sep 2016 16:59:55 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=10069 As someone who has spent way more than my fair share of time in Antarctica, I often find I am pretty unmoved when it comes to looking through new images…

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As someone who has spent way more than my fair share of time in Antarctica, I often find I am pretty unmoved when it comes to looking through new images of the polar regions. However, when I stumbled upon the work of Joshua Holko, I found myself with my jaw in my lap and a strong yearning to pack up my parka and boots. Highly decorated for his work, Holko spends his time taking small groups of photographers into the most inhospitable places on earth and helping them capture extraordinary images (all while grabbing award-winning photographs himself).  This quick glimpse into one of his expeditions not only treats you to some breathtaking shots (I mean really, where else have you seen footage of the moment an iceberg breaks apart into the ocean?) but will also inspire you to pack your camera bag and fly north.

To see more from Joshua Holko find him on Vimeo or at his website.

Check out these incredible screenshots below.

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The Pearl Of Arabia: Exploring the Culture of Oman http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/the-pearl-of-arabia-exploring-the-culture-of-oman/9994/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/the-pearl-of-arabia-exploring-the-culture-of-oman/9994/#respond Mon, 26 Sep 2016 17:05:41 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=9994 In just three short minutes, professional travel videographer Enrique Pacheco captures not only the dramatic architecture and stunning landscapes of Oman, but also the relatable, human aspect of the country.…

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In just three short minutes, professional travel videographer Enrique Pacheco captures not only the dramatic architecture and stunning landscapes of Oman, but also the relatable, human aspect of the country.  Of his short film, titled “The Pearl of Arabia” he says this;

Oman is a place as surprising as unfamiliar. When the traveler explores its diverse landscape, formed by deserts, mountains, oasis and virgin beaches, he realizes why this country was known as the Pearl of Arabia.

But one thing, that really stands out above all in Oman, is the kindness and closeness of its people and the authenticity of their culture.

The images captured by Pacheco transcend time in a way that further entices the viewer to visit.  There is a nice juxtaposition present; Oman is first depicted as exotic, with it’s uniquely shaped trees, calm dark waters and rolling sand dunes. However, with interwoven portraits and shots of people going about daily business, it also has a strangely familiar relatability. Either way, it is definitely next up on my bucket list.

To see more from Enrique Pacheco, find him on Vimeo, Twitter, Facebook, Instagram or his website.

 

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Experience the Beautiful Adventures of Saxony, Germany http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/experience-the-beautiful-adventures-of-saxony-germany/10067/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/09/experience-the-beautiful-adventures-of-saxony-germany/10067/#comments Wed, 14 Sep 2016 19:37:39 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=10067 Thanks to Instagram and Facebook, we now live in a world where travel envy and “wish I was there” syndrome is ubiquitous. With each click, it becomes easier and easier…

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Thanks to Instagram and Facebook, we now live in a world where travel envy and “wish I was there” syndrome is ubiquitous. With each click, it becomes easier and easier to forget that every place on earth (yes, even your little hometown) would be considered exotic by someone, somewhere. We wrap ourselves so fully up in the idea of leaving, that often we never truly explore and enjoy the places where we spend most of our lives. This short film by Sebastian Linda reminds us that it isn’t always necessary to buy a plane ticket to experience something new. He advocates a novel idea, living at home in the same way we travel. The film’s ending quote says it best;

In our everyday life we seem to be unaware of new experiences. But probably, it is just a question of perspective.  One step aside and you might discover something unexpected. It is up to us to hurl ourselves into new adventure.  Seeing the small things big and the big things small.  Let’s go out now. The adventure is waiting in front of your door.  As long as you live.


To see more from Sebastian Linda, find him on Facebook, Vimeo,  and his website.

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Exploring The Diverse Landscapes of Bavaria, Germany http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/08/exploring-the-diverse-landscapes-of-bavaria-germany/9987/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/08/exploring-the-diverse-landscapes-of-bavaria-germany/9987/#comments Wed, 31 Aug 2016 17:27:28 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=9987 Landscape photographer and all around outdoorsman Brad Hays has captured some seriously magnificent shots of central Europe over the last several years. As an avid hiker and climber based in…

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Landscape photographer and all around outdoorsman Brad Hays has captured some seriously magnificent shots of central Europe over the last several years. As an avid hiker and climber based in the Bavarian region of Germany, he has unfettered access to some of the most picturesque mountains and valleys that the continent has to offer.

Being enamored with his work, I reached out to Hays recently and asked him to share some of his favorite images of his home region in Germany with Resource Travel. He tells us how he manages to snag such successful shots and why Bavaria needs to be on your bucket list.

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Waking up to a beautiful layer of fresh snow on the peaks in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.

So, the question I always wonder about ex-pats. How did you stumble upon your new home in Europe?

I graduated a semester early from the University of Colorado so I could travel a little bit. I considered that time my “walk-about” to discover what I truly wanted to do with my life. After traveling in South-East Asia for a few months I came home to start the job search. Fortunately, I received an offer overseas to do marketing for the US military in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany for a resort hotel. That was 16 years ago and I’m still here.

When you aren’t pursuing your art by taking photographs, what are your favorite things to do in Bavaria?

I most enjoy being outside with my kids, hiking and biking.  I love to combine my hobbies of climbing, biking (and whatever else I can do to be outside) with photography.

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A lone cow wanders in the fields near Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Why should photographers (or anyone really) make Germany the next stop on their bucket list?

Bavaria in particular has an amazing combination of culture and landscape. The scenery is dramatic. You see and feel the vertical gain of the peaks from the flat rolling hills just north of the mountains. We get very colorful mountain glow in the morning and evenings. It is also just a few hours away from some other iconic shooting locations. So you can combine your photography trip with other locations and come back with some very diverse cultural shots and mountain landscapes.

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The sleepy Bavarian village of Partenkirchen wakes up to a beautiful sunrise after an early morning storm passed through.

The colors you are able to capture are amazing, can you give us a quick rundown of your shooting and editing process?

I like to pre-visualize the shot and then go out to try to capture it. I use apps to help plan the images and have a list of shots I would like to capture during any given season. Then looking at weather I try to assess which of those shots would work with the conditions that are presented. I have pictures in mind for clear days, storms, night, sunrise, clouds, rainbows. You just have to be patient for the conditions and always be ready to strike on a moments notice. I think beginners underestimate how often landscape photographers get shut out. Good photographers can always come back with useable shots because they know how to make the best with what the conditions provide but things really have to line up for the composition and conditions to produce a five star image.

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The picturesque streets of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.

What can you tell others on how to best capture these stunning landscape shots?

Go shoot often. Always be shooting. You can only can get better by taking and reviewing a lot of photos. Also, surround yourself with great photographers. Friend them on Facebook, review their portfolios on 500px or photo sharing sites. You will start to see what it takes to make great shots.

 

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The sun falls behind the Bavarian peaks.

If someone was planning a trip that direction, what would be your recommendations for “do not miss” places or events?

The summer parades in August make for some great cultural photos. You feel like you took a step back in time. I think May and September offer some really nice combination of seasons. Snowy peaks with flowers blooming in the valley. The sunrise is also a little later so you don’t have to wake up at 0400 to get good light.

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A calm morning in Bavaria after a fresh snow fall.

What is your favorite thing about living in Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Other than the delicious beer)?

The diversity. You can climb or bike in the morning and two hours later be in Italy eating pasta and enjoying a sunset. In a two hour radius you can experience big cities, mountain lakes, rivers and completely different cultures.

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A farmer tends to his hut high above town.

Your work has been particularly inspiring to me, especially when I was first starting out. So now I need to know, what is it that inspires you?

My family. I love watching my kids learn to take photos and start to see their appreciation for the world grow. I think photographers are unique in that they are really moved by the beauty of the world. When the light is good I am anxious. We have that FMAS disease (fear of missing a shot). It drives us and keeps you excited about each new day.

What is your favorite subject or style to shoot these days?

I just purchased a drone so aerial photography is interesting. The landscape sure changes a hundred feet off the ground. Otherwise, sports photography because you have moving subjects and you need to communicate with the athlete to share your vision for the share. This creates a big challenge for light, movement and skill (both photographer and athlete) to come together to make a good image.

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The calm waters of Reisersee create a perfect fall reflection.

What do you have planned next?

Climbing in Spain. We are doing deep water soloing. It is a form of climbing without ropes but when you fall you land in the Mediterranean. Good level of commitment and channeling fear all while being pretty safe.

Anything else to add?

Don’t worry about having the latest or best gear. Get some good lenses and a nice pack, always have it ready, always have it handy. Have a list of shots you want to accomplish and go out and do it!

To see more from Brad Hays, follow him on 500px.

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A blast of sun exploded through the sky while on the Kramer overlooking Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. We were treated to a wonderful sunset that night and woke up a few hours later to experience this intense light. Meanwhile my buddy was snoring in his sleeping bag. Early bird got the worm this day.

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Perched in front of a dramatic sunrise over the mountain town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.

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A cow poses in front of the German Alps.

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The sun setting over the Alpine village of Garmisch-Partenkirchen on a cold winters night in December.

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Beautiful scene in Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany.

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A peaceful evening overlooking the Bavarian village of Wamberg.

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Exploring the Quiet Beauty of Grand Teton National Park http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/07/exploring-the-quiet-beauty-of-grand-teton-national-park/9025/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/07/exploring-the-quiet-beauty-of-grand-teton-national-park/9025/#comments Wed, 20 Jul 2016 16:45:24 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=9025 Often overlooked because of it’s close proximity to its famous big brother, Yellowstone National Park, More Than Just Parks shows us that Grand Teton National Park in northwest Wyoming is full…

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Often overlooked because of it’s close proximity to its famous big brother, Yellowstone National Park, More Than Just Parks shows us that Grand Teton National Park in northwest Wyoming is full of unbelievable landscapes and quiet beauty that will immediately inspire you to start packing up your camping gear.

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Resource Travel caught up with filmmaker and co-founder of More Than Just Parks, Jim Pattiz to ask him about the project.
We had an absolute blast making the film, and who wouldn’t in such an incredible place? It’s well known that the Grand Teton range is one of of the most magnificent mountain ranges in the entire world. In the course of our filming, we discovered the best time time of day to experience the majesty of the park and its namesake mountains is at sunrise – which meant waking up very early – sometimes 3:30am!). The first light touching the mountains gives a brilliant red hue to the peaks and the surrounding sky making for a truly awe-inspiring view.
More Than Just Parks is about sharing the wonders of our national parks with as many people as we can. Our national parks are national treasures and they deserve to be brought to the forefront so that people can see and experience their majesty. This is the best way we can ensure their continued survival and prosperity for future generations.
They have set the ambitious goal of featuring every one of America’s 59 National Parks in an effort to encourage interest and conservation of these incredible environments. Grand Teton marks their 8th completed short and we can’t wait to see the next one. To see how you can help, click here.
 To see more, follow More Than Just Parks on Vimeo, Facebook, Twitter, Instagram, and their website.
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Exploring the Ancient Inca City of Ollantaytambo, Peru in Three Days http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/07/exploring-the-ancient-inca-city-of-ollantaytambo-peru-in-three-days/8586/ http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/2016/07/exploring-the-ancient-inca-city-of-ollantaytambo-peru-in-three-days/8586/#comments Mon, 18 Jul 2016 20:10:55 +0000 http://travel.resourcemagonline.com/?p=8586 While the ancient Incan ruins of Machu Picchu need no introduction to most travelers and photographers, those who haven’t yet made it to see this Wonder of the New World…

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While the ancient Incan ruins of Machu Picchu need no introduction to most travelers and photographers, those who haven’t yet made it to see this Wonder of the New World may be less familiar with the small towns that one passes through to reach the mountaintop where the site resides. These towns are wonders in themselves, situated in high mountain valleys, and offer rare glimpses into the culture of those who live and work in the Andes. For many, the trek to Machu Picchu involves a train ride from Cusco to Aguas Calientes, a small and often crowded tourist’s hub situated below the ruins. Other, more adventurous tourists skip the train and opt for a four-day trek along the Inca trail that terminates in Aguas Calientes. That trek begins in the ancient village of Ollantaytambo.

We call ourselves city travelers, so to us, the hike sounded like torture (although we’ve been assured it’s well worth the effort by many friends), but after doing some research online, we decided we couldn’t miss Ollantaytambo. We grabbed a minivan bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, stored some luggage, and then took the train the rest of the way to Aguas Calientes. This way, on our return journey, we could spend a restful three days in Ollantaytambo before heading back to the relatively bustling city of Cusco. Ollantaytambo is nestled in a valley some 9,000 feet above sea level and was by far the quaintest place we stayed in all of Peru. It was also perhaps our favorite city we visited on that trip to South America. (I likewise reserve a special place in my heart for Chile’s Valparaiso).

 

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The town is filled with tiny corridors like this one, where residents used newer building materials on the top of the ancient Inca laid stones. Some of these buildings have been in continuous use since the Incas first built them in the 15th century. In the background, you can see the ruins of the agricultural terraces.

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It seems that every corner and angle of this town is picturesque. Here you can find some of the most adorable cafes and hotels in South America.

We lodged at La Casa del Abuelo, a charming spot run by a lovely, kind couple and their adorable young daughter. The hotel’s complimentary breakfast was accompanied by exquisite lattes (brewed with pride by the proprietor himself on an old Italian espresso machine) and these were the perfect introduction to the welcoming city.

The first thing one notices is that the city’s architecture is spectacular. The town exists in and around still-standing Incan structures that are used today as restaurants, stores, and houses. It occurred to me that if these buildings were simply smaller, they’d be tended to by gloved curators in a museum where people would be charged admission for the privilege of simply viewing them. But as it stands now, these structures are the homes and shops of folks who carve out a life surrounded by the peaks of the Andes—their heads in the clouds and their feet on the grooved cobblestone walkways constructed before Columbus had “discovered” the New World.

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A view overlooking the town from the hiking trails near the Inca storehouse ruins.

 

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Residents walk through the cobbled streets surounded by historic buildings and ancient walls.

Ollantaytambo is famous in its own right for Incan agricultural ruins, large tiers carved out of the side of the mountain. Tourists flock to see these famous ruins, and, as is the case with Machu Picchu and other famous attractions, pay a fee that supports the maintenance and protection of the grounds. But on the opposite side of town, nestled between a couple buildings is a small and unassuming trailhead that leads up the slope opposite the terraces. This poorly tended path leads to an ancient, slovenly granary overrun with local flora that provides a great lookout over the small town. Upon reaching the granary, it becomes obvious that the trails continue indefinitely, winding around the sides of the hills, over small peaks, penetrating deeper and deeper into the Andes. And each of these trails leads to more and more ruins. So while most opt for the well-tended, well-groomed, and famous sites, there’s also magic to be found standing alone on centuries-old stone, experiencing the isolation and beauty of ruins in actual ruin. The sense of history is always overwhelming but becomes even more so when one sees what happens when nature begins its reclamation process, freed from the work of guards and groundskeepers. Ollantaytambo offers a taste of that beauty, and the only expense is the energy of walking. Even for those who tend to skip the hikes, this is well worth it.

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A dog sits on a cool patch of stone over one of the citie’s waterways. The Incas set up an elaborate irrigation and aqueduct system in Ollantytambo to bring water to the residents and agricultrual terraces.

 

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“Hands” Marta, a Quechan woman, works on a traditional piece of weaving.

Ollantaytambo isn’t just a staging ground for those heading to Machu Picchu. Up a nearby mountain is a Quechuan village, just recently connected to the mainstream Peruvian culture and governance, where the local women are gifted weavers and the town’s residents communicate through interpreters (even Spanish hasn’t reached a few remote villages in the high Andes). The women laugh while they teach helpless tourists their sewing methods. Awamaki, a local non-profit, runs small groups up to the village collectives a few days per week and ensures that sales of the ladies’ wares go back to supporting their increasingly endangered way of life. The photo featured above called ‘Hands’ shows the deft fingers of Marta, a Quechuan woman working at her trade.

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Ollantytambo is nestled up in the Andes, the last stop before heading up to Aguas Calientes and Machu Pichu.

 

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If you end up near Ollantaytambo, chances are your destination is Machu Pichu. Most tourists skip over this adorable town, but it should be considered as a destination in it’s own right.

On our last day, we opted to pay a visit a local chocolatier. For not too small a price, one is allowed to attempt to make a few confections using prepared ingredients as well as learn about the history of one of the world’s most popular foods. Chocolate originates in the Americas, and until the arrival of Westerners in the 16th century, it was unknown to Europeans. Within a few centuries there blossomed a worldwide love affair with the product, and today one can stand among the ruins of Ollantaytambo and taste a version of an ancient Incan chocolate beverage (a bit spicy and bitter), and then round the experience out by making one’s own candies. Chocolates in hand, and with a friendly hug in the hotel lobby, we ferried our belongings down to the mini-bus station and hopped a ride back to Cusco. While we enjoyed Cusco for all it had to offer, returning to a town with a Starbucks made us instantly miss the charm of the mountain village, where the warmth of the hotel, the wonderful quinoa soup we enjoyed from a friendly café, and the sounds of the elderly, blind musician playing outside in a local market for tips made us feel like we’d seen a slice of life that, while perhaps often seen by others as well, certainly shouldn’t be missed by anyone headed to Peru to see the grand ruins of Machu Picchu.

Bradley Geer contributed to this article.

See more photos from Kira Morris on her website, Facebook, and Instagram

 

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A woman begins to set up a traditional weaving piece in her village just outside of Ollantaytambo. She is part of a collective that works with the certified free trade organization, Awamaki, which is based in Ollantaytambo.

 

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A view of the town with the Inca agricultural terraces in the background.

 

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While on a hike I stumbled upon several remanents of ancient Incan culture such as these grain storerooms.

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